Gourmet

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Made from yuca (pronounced "YOO-ca"), pearl tapioca can be found at Asian markets and specialty foods shops. Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

The following dish was a popular choice for bridge luncheons in the 1960s.

That renewal of my acquaintance with marrow led to the invention of a canapé or sandwich filling that I believe to be without a peer as an accompaniment for cocktails. In the beginning I produced small batches, but they vanished with such unbelievable rapidity that I was forced to make them larger and larger. I pass on the recipe willingly, for the good of the human race, which has too long suffered from canapés that either adhere distressingly to the roof of the mouth or result in unsightly toothpicks scattered on the floor.

Inspired by the flavor-packed ginger scallion oil served with slices of chicken and duck at New York Noodle Town in Manhattan, we devised the following recipe.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Fried green plantains. When making tostones look for unripe plantains that are a deep shade of green: The recipe will not work with ripe plantains. Ideally, the plantains should be fried the day they are purchased, but they can be kept, wrapped well in a plastic bag and chilled, for 2 to 3 days.

This recipe requires a little advance planning — the yogurt will need to drain for at least 8 hours.

For this recipe you will need 25 fluted molds, 2 1/2 inches across the top, 1 1/2 inches across the bottom, and 1 inch deep. Molds are available at some cookware shops and by mail order from Bridge Kitchenware, (800) 274-3435 or (212) 838-1901.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Yam Som O Pummelo is an unusual Southeast Asian citrus fruit that is available here in the winter months. It has a very thick skin that ranges in color from pale yellow to dark green. Its flavor is similar to grapefruit's but is sweeter and less bitter, which makes it a great balance for the heat of chiles. Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.