Lemon

(MADELEINES) While researching this book, I became fixated, absolutely fanatical, about madeleines, the plump golden tea cakes shaped like scallop shells. They were something to boost my spirits on the days when I walked for miles sleuthing in search of culinary jewels. I tasted dozens of madeleines, but only a few were "just right." The best, freshest madeleine has a dry, almost dusty taste when eaten on its own. One of my favorite versions is made by André Lerch, an Alsatian baker with a bread and pastry shop on the Left Bank. To be truly appreciated — to "invade the senses with exquisite pleasure" as they did for Marcel Proust — Madeleines must be dipped in tea, ideally the slightly lime-flavoured tilleul, which releases the fragrant, flavorful lemon essence of the little tea cake. Special madeleine tins can be found in all the French restaurant supply shops and in the housewares section of department stores. The following is a recipe I developed.

The small, sweet Meyer lemon, common in California backyards, has a thin, smooth skin and a juice interior and is particularly fragrant. These scones, which are lighter than most, will spread slightly during baking.

An easy do-ahead appetizer.

Serve this citrus-marinated steak with white rice and pinto beans tossed with butter and a marinated cabbage salad for an authentic Central American meal.

This cake, bursting with berries, is perfect for a picnic. Dress it up for company with unsweetened whipped cream and a simple vanilla custard sauce.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 25 hr

This cake was adapted by food editor Shelton Wiseman from a recipe published in our January 1945 issue.

Lighter, brighter flavors make this old-fashioned salad new again.

Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 35 min

Tofu is the base of the dressing in this recipe. A sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds adds to the flavor of this nice dish.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

In just minutes, you've got a sophisticated accompaniment to steak, lamb, grilled fish or roast chicken.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Marinate chicken a day ahead; after ten-minute broil, the dish is ready.

Blueberries top a creamy light mousse in this terrific dessert. It can be made a day ahead, then garnished with the white chocolate shavings before serving.