Gourmet

Russet potatoes are the classic choice for baking but also are best for frying. Because they’re high in starch and low in moisture, they make crisper fries. And don’t refrigerate potatoes for frying; the sugars that accumulate cause very rapid browning and the fries can turn bitter. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 30 min

Besugo a la Parrilla Besugo translates as "red sea bream," which is the type of fish the restaurant uses for this dish; the bream is grilled, then deboned and served whole. Red bream is difficult to find in this country, so we've substituted red snapper, and we've chosen to broil fillets to keep things simple.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

This recipe is an accompaniment for Chocolate Chestnut Torte with Chocolate Cognac Mousse. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

We have transformed this classic dessert from Blum's coffee shops, which used to grace the streets of San Francisco, into a low-fat luxury. We use caramel and Rice Krispies in the crust instead of fat-laden nuts — and you'd never guess that the rich chocolate coffee filling has no butter in it.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr In an April 1975 article titled "The Phenomenal Food Processor," Gourmet introduced the Cuisinart to the world. More than 25 years later, no American kitchen seems well equipped without one. Early on, the food processor dazzled us with mousselines and silken brioche dough; pulverized parmesan cheese; shredded, sliced, and puréed vegetables; pulsed pie dough, and spreadable pâtés. It was even easy to clean. Here, the processor transforms a dinner party standard — coquilles St.-Jacques — into crisp little hors d'oeuvre puffs.

Papas con Fideos This recipe is from Delia Marcus, who was taught how to feed her Gypsy husband properly by her mother-in-law. Marcus founded flamencarte.com, a referral service for flamenco-oriented visits to Seville.

Cheddar is much easier to grate when it's very cold, so keep your cheese in the refrigerator until you are ready to proceed with this recipe. Don't be tempted to use anything other than a nonstick skillet, or the chips will stick and tear.

Tarte au Sucre du Pays Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Serve this salad with grilled meats; it's especially great with spare ribs.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 9 hr

Flambéing was all the rage in the '40s, not only for its drama but also for its utility — chafing dishes let the cook go home early and let the host or hostess show off in the dining room. Everyone's heard of cherries Jubilee, but we prefer strawberries set aflame in boozy syrup.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr When Craig Claiborne accepted an invitation to a hunt breakfast in Virginia, he didn't understand that riding a horse would be part of the deal. He found the experience hair-raising but furnished us with a delightful account of that weekend — along with this fluffy rendition of the South's beloved grits. It makes a good side dish to almost any meat — especially ham, of course.

This bread uses a yeast starter that needs to be made at least one day ahead.

Consommé avec Petites Profiteroles Active time: 2 1/4 hr Start to finish: 20 hr (includes making stock)