Gourmet

Veal chops from a butcher are usually about 1 1/4 inches thick and weigh 12 to 14 ounces each. The supermarket variety of chop is thinner and smaller, ranging from 8 to 10 ounces each, and would only need to be roasted 12 to 15 minutes in this recipe.

Salade de Cresson et Endive Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 10 min

Pla Phad Phrik Khing The pummelo salad makes a nice first course with this dish.

This piquant Indian marinade adds depth of flavor to the sturgeon's meaty white flesh. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr

If you choose to omit the sweetbreads, simply begin the recipe by sautéing the pancetta. (In that case, you may also want to purchase a larger veal or pork loin — going up to a 5-pound veal loin or a 6-pound pork loin.)

(Beef Goulash Soup)

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe, given to me by my aunt, was given to her by her mother. Everyone agrees that it is absolutely delicious. The contrast between a sweet cake and a slightly spicy apple filling is piquant and delightful. The cake layers resemble large sugar cookies.

If using young, small mustard greens, simply stir-fry as directed, omitting the water and additional cooking time.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Although we call for canned black-eyed peas, you can use frozen peas or cook up a batch of dried ones.

While this recipe isn't terribly difficult, it is labor-intensive. We recommend you break it up into a couple of steps: Make the filling, then enlist a friend or two to help you do the rolling the following day.

Variations of this seasoning are found all over the Middle East. It's used to flavor eggs and is also served with pita—dunk warm flatbread in good olive oil and then the spice dip. The kind sold dried (with dried thyme) in Middle Eastern stores just doesn't compare to za'atar made fresh.