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Frijoles de la Olla

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Photographs by Laura Murray, food styling by Susie Theodorou

“I don’t soak dried beans. Ever,” says Rick Martinez. “Think about it: Beans are very absorbent, and when you let them puff up in a bowl of water overnight, what they’re absorbing is just that—plain water. To me, the hour or two that process shaves off your cook time simply isn’t worth a plain-water-flavored bean. Instead, I do like most Mexican households and toss my beans straight into a flexible five-ingredient blend of water, salt, herbs, garlic, and some kind of allium. After a few hours of simmering (fresher beans cook faster, but any will work), every last bean is suffused with rich, savory flavor.” A good rule of thumb is to check for tenderness every hour to make sure they don’t overcook and start breaking apart. But if they do, it’s a great excuse to refry them—no one will ever know!

Recipe information

  • Yield

    Makes about 3 quarts

Ingredients

3 spring onions or scallions, trimmed, or ¼ medium onion
2 sprigs hardy herbs (such as avocado leaves, rosemary, thyme, or bay)
3 small sprigs tender herbs (such as epazote, cilantro, basil, or mint)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 lb. dried beans (such as pinto, black, cannellini, or kidney), rinsed, picked through
2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Bring scallions, herbs, garlic, beans, salt, and 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently, uncovered, skimming surface and stirring occasionally and adding more water as needed to keep beans covered, until beans are tender, 1½–3½ hours. Cooking time will depend on how old the beans are. Remove scallions, herbs, and garlic.

    Step 2

    Do Ahead: Beans can be cooked 3 months ahead. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze.

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