Shellfish

Southerners expect and almost demand a savory spread at any even involving cocktails (which mans virtually all social get-togethers), so Mother certainly would never disappoint her guests at a formal cocktail supper, even when one or two other appetizers are served. (We won't even get into how Rebels also relish sweet appetizers with their drinks.) She uses this basic formula also to make crabmeat spinach, and ham spreads, so feel free to experiment.

Look for Old Bay seasoning in the spice section of the supermarket.

The tortilla strips need to dry overnight, so begin making this one day ahead.

For food safety reasons, the lobsters must be roasted immediately after they have been boiled and split. Market tip: American lobster from the Northeast is still in fairly good supply, though vulnerable to fishing pressure. California spiny lobster is also a good choice in this recipe.

Prepared pesto is widely available; here it brightens up quickly cooked clams. Offer some crusty bread for soaking up the broth and a salad of bagged Mediterranean greens dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. End with gelato and biscotti for an authentic Italian touch.

Fresh fennel, fennel seeds and the anise-flavored liqueur Pernod are combined here.

In this clever dish from chef Michel Richard at Citronelle in Washington, D.C., fried sea scallops coated with fine strands of phyllo pastry resemble porcupines.

At the restaurant Antico Martini in Venice, Italy, they include the scallop coral-or roe-in the dish and use fresh porcini when in season.

Time: 30 to 40 Minutes No doubt shrimp with cocktail sauce is a luxury dish, but it has sunk to the point where too frequently it means a pile of shrimp cooked days in advance, served on a bed of iceberg lettuce with some bottled sauce that always needs more help than it ever receives. There is a better way, however. Cook the shrimp yourself; in the meantime, prepare a simple ketchup-based sauce that has so much flavor, you'll find it becoming a part of your standard repertoire.

Grilled zucchini adds extra flavor and texture to this light and pretty main course.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This makes a delicious luncheon entrée with a salad.