Dairy

You get a quick sauce when you let compound butter melt on a hot steak.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe for chiles en macedonia combines ingredients from three states—Jalisco, Colima, and Michoacan. It came from the late Juan Diego Michel, who taught in Billy Cross's schools in Napa Valley and PuertoVallarta. The dish was a favorite of the Michel family in Jalisco, where, in his younger days, Juan Diego had his own restaurant and used the recipes from 200 years ago that had been passed down to him. To Cross, he was a Mexican-cooking mentor.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Cardamom adds a lovely accent to the compote and the filling, which is made with soft farmer cheese for creamy texture.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

Fontina cheese and caponata (a chunky Sicilian eggplant relish available in cans or jars at most supermarkets) make a substantial sandwich. Have pasta salad as well; grapes and assorted bakery cookies complete the dinner. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

That renewal of my acquaintance with marrow led to the invention of a canapé or sandwich filling that I believe to be without a peer as an accompaniment for cocktails. In the beginning I produced small batches, but they vanished with such unbelievable rapidity that I was forced to make them larger and larger. I pass on the recipe willingly, for the good of the human race, which has too long suffered from canapés that either adhere distressingly to the roof of the mouth or result in unsightly toothpicks scattered on the floor.

This recipe requires a little advance planning — the yogurt will need to drain for at least 8 hours.

Begin preparing this lovely dessert at least five hours before serving.

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.

Mensaf This recipe, adapted from Kathy Sullivan and Janine El Tal, international educators and longtime residents of Jordan, is a scaled-down version of that country's national dish, which is usually served in large quantities at important gatherings. Mensaf is eaten standing up, using the right hand to form a little ball of rice and meat. Traditionally, jameed, a ball of reconstituted sun-dried yogurt, is used to make the sauce, but it is replaced here by regular plain yogurt that has been stabilized (with egg white and cornstarch) for cooking. Buy the richest, tangiest yogurt you can find. Active time: 55 min Start to finish: 3 1/2 hr

In this simplified version of raclette, one of Switzerland's classic dishes, Swiss cheese replaces raclette cheese, and the cheese is melted in individual portions instead of being scraped from a large wheel as it melts. This dish makes a terrific appetizer, or it can be served with a green salad.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Offer this Italian cornmeal side dish in place of potatoes or rice. It's best served immediately out of the oven.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This is one of the real classics of [Friuli-Venezia Giulia] cuisine. You will find it wherever you travel, especially in springtime when wild herbs sprout in fragrant profusion all over la terra fortunata. The key here is to use as large a variety of herbs, grasses, and greens as you can locate. It is traditional that there be at least five different types. Among the most famous are silene, hops, melissa, mint, verbena, basil, marjoram, sage, parsley, spinach (just a little), fennel leaves, Swiss chard, zucchini (courgette) flowers, wild fennel, beet greens, chervil, sorrel, and celery leaves. This frittata is served piping hot, tepid, or cold. As always, it should be covered if allowed to cool, and cut into wedges before serving.